Central locking doesn't work on VAZ 2110: reasons and repair procedure for real car

Greetings! Today I will tell you about the reasons why the central locking system on VAZ 2110 doesn't work and show you the procedure of diagnostics, search and troubleshooting of the central locking system in Lada 110. So, let's go!

Why doesn't the central locking work on VAZ 2110?

In many years of work with auto electrics, I have faced this problem more than once. As for VAZ 2110, I will note the following causes of central locking failure:

Fuse blown

It is with this element that you should start checking the electrical circuit of the central locking, as you will see below, when I will proceed to the story about repairing the central locking system of the Lada 110 with the example of a real car. The fuse is very sensitive to various kinds of overloads (even the smallest), moisture and strong vibrations. Repair, in this case, is reduced to the replacement of this element of the intrusion detector circuit.

Damaged wires

This cause can be called the most common. It occurs in the places with the highest load on the assembly, namely in the place where the corrugation with the wires passes on the door and rack side. You will also see it on the example of our repair.

The contact in the central locking actuator does not close

This happens for the following reasons:

• Incorrect position of the pull rod after the connection of the lock button and the actuator, as a result of which the button does not go all the way down and can not close the contact;
• the lock button touches the door trim, which, as in the first case, prevents it from lowering all the way down and closing the contact.

If such problems are detected, the first thing to do is to check the position of the button and the trim for scuffing. If no problems are found, pay attention to the location of the pull rod.

Oxidation of the contacts of the central locking connector

The central lock connector on the Lada 110 is located in an extremely unsuccessful way in terms of protection against water entering it. Namely - under the mat, at the location of the driver's feet. In winter and autumn a lot of water is accumulated there, what leads to the oxidation of contacts and, as a result, the lack of power in activator. It is possible to eliminate this omission of VAZ 2110 designers with the help of ordinary food film, with which you can wrap the plug connector.

Mechanical failures

The category of such central lock failure includes wear and tear of the plastic gear wheels of the pulling mechanism. It is quite easy to detect this malfunction - when opening/closing the central locking system, there will be an extraneous noise coming from under the door trim, which is due to the slippage of the gear wheels as a result of abrasion.

Now that you know about the main causes of malfunction VAZ 2110, let's proceed directly to the procedure of identifying and troubleshooting the central locking on the real car.

Central locking repair on VAZ 2110

Well, we have come to the main thing - the repair of the central lock on the VAZ 2110. As you can see from the photo, the car came to me already partially disassembled - the driver's door card was removed.

The problem is that none of the doors can be opened/closed by the central locking system. Well, let's get started.

For the work we will need:

• screwdriver and wire cutters;
• a device for "testing" the electrical circuit of the central lock;
• a device to search for short circuits. I will use a device of my own making;
• special current clamps.

So, let's begin.

As I said above, the inspection of the circuit begins with the fuse. In our case, the 25A fuse was blown. So I pulled it out and connected my device to the socket. You can see more about it in my video "Load Cell for Finding Short Circuit".

Disconnect the connector of the central locking circuit, which is hidden in the front door, connect a probe to it and try to control the lock (open-close). There are 3 wires in the connector - black (ground), white and brown (control wires). We plug in the white and apply a pulse to it - the locks clicked. That is, now they are able to open.

Let's simulate the situation with the passenger door closed. Close it and try to control the lock with a pulse to one of the wires of the connector. The lights on my device light up, which is a sign of a short circuit in the central locking circuit.

From this we can conclude that the wires in the front passenger door junction are broken and when they are closed there is a short circuit, as a result of which the central lock stops working. Do you remember, when we were analyzing causes of central lock failure, I said that the place of wire harness passage on the door and pillar side is the most vulnerable place? Now it has been confirmed in practice.

After removing the front passenger door trim and taking apart all the wiring, to my surprise I found no damage. Visually all the wiring was intact. We put everything back and continued to look for a short circuit.

Disconnect the connector that goes to the front passenger door and try to operate the lock again. The instrument indicates a short circuit. That is, the problem is not in this node, because we have excluded it from the circuit. So it is necessary to lift the mats and continue looking for the place where the short is.

Next, I connected my device to the connector of the central locking control unit. At the same time I disconnected the connectors of the front doors and removed the connector from the central locking control unit to exclude them from the circuit.

The yellow and red wires are responsible for controlling the operation of the central lock in the unit, which go through all the doors. I connected my short circuit search device to the "+" at the location of the blown fuse.

When you apply a pulse to the yellow wire of the connector to the central locking unit - the rear door locks are triggered.

Now I supply power to the red one. The device signals a short circuit. This indicates that the red wire in some place sits on the ground, that is, its bare part touches the car body.

These two wires, red and yellow, should not be tested, and the checker shows that they are on the ground.

Let's start the search.

The search led me to the right rear door. With the help of current clamps and my device I examine this part of the wiring. I connect the current clamps to the red wire, we see a current of 0.02 A.

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When a current load is applied, the bulbs on my device light up and the current clamp shows a huge spike. A short circuit is present.

This indicates that the red wire is sitting on the ground. Now you need to find where the wire is shorted to ground.

And again the search leads to the place of passage of the corrugation with wires on the door and rack side. In this case, the wire was pinched by the door stop. When replacing this element, the red wire was pinched, as a result of which some part of it was exposed and shorted to the body of the Lada 110.

Insulate the wire and carefully hide the entire harness in the corresponding cavity.

At this point, the diagnosis, search and repair of the central lock VAZ 2110 can be considered complete. Good luck on the roads and see you soon!

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